As I write this, it seems to me like the recollections of some movie we might have seen. But I wish to state here that indeed the experience was very real.
My daughter Ira, and I are sailing on Maersk Nautilus, a N class VLCC ship, with my husband C/O Mahendra (Mahen). We are at a port in Congo in West Africa. Along with us there’s Chief Engineer's family onboard too, Khushnum and their 9 yrs old daughter. They are Parsi's based in Mumbai too. Khushnum is a really nice lady and we get along very well, Ira as usual God worship's Shinjini since she's elder to Ira but both the kids have quite an age gap to really get along.
4 days ago, on 22nd April 2009, we visited Port Gentil, in Cape Lopez, Gabon, West Africa. Saying it was an experience would be an understatement.
On 21st April 2009, there was a possibility of shore leave. And so Khushnum and me both demanded to be allowed to go onshore. We were to go onshore but the shore passes could be arranged only by 9pm and therefore only the guys were allowed to venture out in the night.
But eventually we managed to fix up with the agent for next day morning, whatever that would be possible in the 3 hours that we had. As I got ready in the morning, we got the news that the previous night the shore-leave group had had a bad time and had ended up paying $54 for a fried pizza (I wonder if it was a delicacy or they got fooled). But yet we were all ready to go, and so we wanted to go onshore and so comes into picture ‘Benhud’, a taller than 6ft African man dressed in orange overalls with the hugest hands and feet I’ve ever seen.
Well, the trip to Gabon had already begun with negatives, one, being delay in shore pass, two, the pizza news, so I thought the next negative had completed the traditional bad luck trio. The pathway from the ship to land was made of small iron grills, n my li’l cute heels got stuck in them and broke even before I could actually step on the soil of Gabon.
Phew! We had just stepped on the soil when it started pouring, n we took shelter in the security office of the French African security guards, and we were not even a kilometer away from the ship. By now the vivacious optimism (for which I am quite well known in my friends) had died down, and I was actually considering walking back to the ship without really wanting to know what lay ahead as I sat there watching the French African rap songs being played sitting in the midst of 6 ft tall security guards. But yet still the adventurous side of me said ‘nothing drastic has happened yet’.
A wait of 20 mins and we were out in Gabon, riding in Benhud’s car, heading out of the terminal security gates. But all we could see further looked like we were entering a jungle safari. I guess Benhud who knew tits-bits of English understood our comments of safari as he accompanied us in our amused laughter.
And then we saw the first sign of some possible civilization, a kind of open wooden shack coloured black n white, with 4 men sitting outside it. And that was a restaurant, woaahhh!! Soon we moved further into the fishermen’s village, where everywhere the spectacle spelled obvious poverty. Huge ladies in torn clothes or just a big cloth wrapped around them below their arms long enough just to cover the needful and huge men shirtless or in long worn out t-shirt with shorts. Kids were mostly naked with whatever cloth possible covering them where ever possible. The vision not only was heart wrenching but also scary. We in the car were like those rich snobbish tourists who sit n the air-conditioning pitying the poor but doing nothing about it. The beauty of the village was the beautiful untouched white sand beaches and open basic wild life within touching distance. Birds, bees, crabs, lizards, hens, ducks, goats, fishes all in their natural comfort were easily visible. We did step out for about 10 mins not able to resist the sand but soon we preferred to run back to our only secure sanctuary, the car. As we went around the village we even got the opportunity to witness a witchcraft ritual which Benhud was very uncomfortable in explaining and other than repeatedly requesting us not to click any snaps he refused to say anymore about it.
It had been just 30 mins since we had moved out of the terminal gates and already the village tour was over, and we were quite eager to see more, so we asked Benhud if he could take us to the city. He explained he needed to check for permission to take us to the city which was just 15 mins drive away, and so he stopped the car to make a call. That’s when this huge African shirtless again huge guy came and knocked (which was more like banged) on our window and said something to Benhud. He was standing right outside my car door and I realized that my door wasn’t even locked. From their expressions I realized he was asking Benhud to bring us out of the car to which Benhud disagreed, and started to move the car ahead. As we slowed started to move ahead he gave me a huge smirk of a smile and banged again on my side of the car door making me jump in my seat again, asking Benhud with gestures to let us come out. Benhud this time clearly stated a ‘No, we are leaving’ and moved his car ahead leaving the fellow behind.
We were now ready to go back to the ship, atleast I know I was.
Meanwhile the call went thru to Benhud’s boss and Mahen informed us on the phone that ofcourse we could go to the city only we had to be back by 12noon. And my adventurous side again said ‘nothing drastic has happened yet’. So we all moved ahead to the city, expecting a better experince.
It was a beautiful drive, greenery byt eh means of trees, bushes and tall grass running along on one side and the other side lined with extensive lengths of white sand beaches, picturesque beauty. Benhud declared we are in the city at the first sight of civilization and we were in shock at the view of little huts and cottages in the name of a city. The huts were just a little better than the barely standing contraptions in the village. And this was right next to Gabon, Port Gentil, AIRPORT.
Further as we came to crossing, Khusnum noticed a signboard showing the direction to a ‘ZOO PARC’ and with half of our group consisting of kids the destination was unanimous. But as we moved to the ZOO PARC, the grave dangers of mosquito bites and malaria occurred to us, but Lo! We were there already. It was the fastest trip to the ZOO of my life. We moved in the ZOO like the people in those epical Carlie Caplin movies, swiftlymoving from one cage to another, hurriedly clicking snaps and in a jiffy we were jumping back into the sanctuary of our car, completing the ZOO visit in not more than 15 mins. Yet still we all had around a total of 11 mosquito bites on us (yes we counted them).
Now I guess Benhud decided it was time to end our agony and he drove us to the elite side of the city, which now was way beyond our expectations, filled with lovely pink n blue coloured French houses. No, it wasn’t a modern city of tall skyscraping buildings but a beautiful city of lovely pretty homes standin right next to the beaches. Here we saw a huge, beautifully landscaped house and Khushnum and I both instantly expressed that it must belong to a very wealthy man, only to have Benhud comment that it was the President’s house.
Soon after a beautiful sighting drive and a very short forced stopover at a building internally filled with very simple but expensive shops, to pick up a remembrance, we moved back to the ship.
It was nonetheless an experience I shall carry for long, the trip to Gabon.
My daughter Ira, and I are sailing on Maersk Nautilus, a N class VLCC ship, with my husband C/O Mahendra (Mahen). We are at a port in Congo in West Africa. Along with us there’s Chief Engineer's family onboard too, Khushnum and their 9 yrs old daughter. They are Parsi's based in Mumbai too. Khushnum is a really nice lady and we get along very well, Ira as usual God worship's Shinjini since she's elder to Ira but both the kids have quite an age gap to really get along.
4 days ago, on 22nd April 2009, we visited Port Gentil, in Cape Lopez, Gabon, West Africa. Saying it was an experience would be an understatement.
On 21st April 2009, there was a possibility of shore leave. And so Khushnum and me both demanded to be allowed to go onshore. We were to go onshore but the shore passes could be arranged only by 9pm and therefore only the guys were allowed to venture out in the night.
But eventually we managed to fix up with the agent for next day morning, whatever that would be possible in the 3 hours that we had. As I got ready in the morning, we got the news that the previous night the shore-leave group had had a bad time and had ended up paying $54 for a fried pizza (I wonder if it was a delicacy or they got fooled). But yet we were all ready to go, and so we wanted to go onshore and so comes into picture ‘Benhud’, a taller than 6ft African man dressed in orange overalls with the hugest hands and feet I’ve ever seen.
Well, the trip to Gabon had already begun with negatives, one, being delay in shore pass, two, the pizza news, so I thought the next negative had completed the traditional bad luck trio. The pathway from the ship to land was made of small iron grills, n my li’l cute heels got stuck in them and broke even before I could actually step on the soil of Gabon.
Phew! We had just stepped on the soil when it started pouring, n we took shelter in the security office of the French African security guards, and we were not even a kilometer away from the ship. By now the vivacious optimism (for which I am quite well known in my friends) had died down, and I was actually considering walking back to the ship without really wanting to know what lay ahead as I sat there watching the French African rap songs being played sitting in the midst of 6 ft tall security guards. But yet still the adventurous side of me said ‘nothing drastic has happened yet’.
A wait of 20 mins and we were out in Gabon, riding in Benhud’s car, heading out of the terminal security gates. But all we could see further looked like we were entering a jungle safari. I guess Benhud who knew tits-bits of English understood our comments of safari as he accompanied us in our amused laughter.
And then we saw the first sign of some possible civilization, a kind of open wooden shack coloured black n white, with 4 men sitting outside it. And that was a restaurant, woaahhh!! Soon we moved further into the fishermen’s village, where everywhere the spectacle spelled obvious poverty. Huge ladies in torn clothes or just a big cloth wrapped around them below their arms long enough just to cover the needful and huge men shirtless or in long worn out t-shirt with shorts. Kids were mostly naked with whatever cloth possible covering them where ever possible. The vision not only was heart wrenching but also scary. We in the car were like those rich snobbish tourists who sit n the air-conditioning pitying the poor but doing nothing about it. The beauty of the village was the beautiful untouched white sand beaches and open basic wild life within touching distance. Birds, bees, crabs, lizards, hens, ducks, goats, fishes all in their natural comfort were easily visible. We did step out for about 10 mins not able to resist the sand but soon we preferred to run back to our only secure sanctuary, the car. As we went around the village we even got the opportunity to witness a witchcraft ritual which Benhud was very uncomfortable in explaining and other than repeatedly requesting us not to click any snaps he refused to say anymore about it.
It had been just 30 mins since we had moved out of the terminal gates and already the village tour was over, and we were quite eager to see more, so we asked Benhud if he could take us to the city. He explained he needed to check for permission to take us to the city which was just 15 mins drive away, and so he stopped the car to make a call. That’s when this huge African shirtless again huge guy came and knocked (which was more like banged) on our window and said something to Benhud. He was standing right outside my car door and I realized that my door wasn’t even locked. From their expressions I realized he was asking Benhud to bring us out of the car to which Benhud disagreed, and started to move the car ahead. As we slowed started to move ahead he gave me a huge smirk of a smile and banged again on my side of the car door making me jump in my seat again, asking Benhud with gestures to let us come out. Benhud this time clearly stated a ‘No, we are leaving’ and moved his car ahead leaving the fellow behind.
We were now ready to go back to the ship, atleast I know I was.
Meanwhile the call went thru to Benhud’s boss and Mahen informed us on the phone that ofcourse we could go to the city only we had to be back by 12noon. And my adventurous side again said ‘nothing drastic has happened yet’. So we all moved ahead to the city, expecting a better experince.
It was a beautiful drive, greenery byt eh means of trees, bushes and tall grass running along on one side and the other side lined with extensive lengths of white sand beaches, picturesque beauty. Benhud declared we are in the city at the first sight of civilization and we were in shock at the view of little huts and cottages in the name of a city. The huts were just a little better than the barely standing contraptions in the village. And this was right next to Gabon, Port Gentil, AIRPORT.
Further as we came to crossing, Khusnum noticed a signboard showing the direction to a ‘ZOO PARC’ and with half of our group consisting of kids the destination was unanimous. But as we moved to the ZOO PARC, the grave dangers of mosquito bites and malaria occurred to us, but Lo! We were there already. It was the fastest trip to the ZOO of my life. We moved in the ZOO like the people in those epical Carlie Caplin movies, swiftlymoving from one cage to another, hurriedly clicking snaps and in a jiffy we were jumping back into the sanctuary of our car, completing the ZOO visit in not more than 15 mins. Yet still we all had around a total of 11 mosquito bites on us (yes we counted them).
Now I guess Benhud decided it was time to end our agony and he drove us to the elite side of the city, which now was way beyond our expectations, filled with lovely pink n blue coloured French houses. No, it wasn’t a modern city of tall skyscraping buildings but a beautiful city of lovely pretty homes standin right next to the beaches. Here we saw a huge, beautifully landscaped house and Khushnum and I both instantly expressed that it must belong to a very wealthy man, only to have Benhud comment that it was the President’s house.
Soon after a beautiful sighting drive and a very short forced stopover at a building internally filled with very simple but expensive shops, to pick up a remembrance, we moved back to the ship.
It was nonetheless an experience I shall carry for long, the trip to Gabon.
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